Chikankari is one of the most exquisite and traditional forms of hand embroidery originating from Lucknow, India. Known for its delicate and intricate patterns, Chikankari work adds timeless charm and elegance to any fabric. This centuries-old art is a symbol of grace and craftsmanship, making it a favorite for kurtis, sarees, dupattas, and ethnic wear.
In this blog, we will explore the history of Chikankari and discuss the different types of Chikankari stitches and work that make this embroidery so special.
What is Chikankari Work?
Chikankari is a form of hand embroidery traditionally done using white thread on light, breathable fabrics like cotton, muslin, chiffon, georgette, or silk. Over the years, Chikankari has evolved, and now it is also done with colored threads and embellished with beads, sequins, or mirror work for a modern twist.
History of Chikankari
Chikankari embroidery is believed to have been introduced by Nur Jahan, the Mughal Empress and wife of Emperor Jahangir, in the 16th century. This art form was originally done with white thread on white muslin fabric, giving it a subtle and elegant look. Over time, it became a signature craft of Lucknow and is still known as “Lucknawi Chikan.”
Different Types of Chikankari Stitches and Work
Chikankari embroidery consists of 36 types of stitches, but here are some of the most popular and commonly used ones:
1. Tepchi (Running Stitch)
Tepchi is the most basic and simple form of Chikankari stitch. It involves a running stitch worked on the right side of the fabric and often serves as the foundation for more intricate designs.
Where it is used:
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Outlines of floral motifs
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Borders and straight-line patterns
Benefit: Ideal for casual wear kurtis and lightweight fabrics.
2. Bakhiya (Shadow Work)
Bakhiya is one of the most popular Chikankari stitches, also known as “shadow work.” It is done on the reverse side of the fabric, giving a shadow-like effect when viewed from the front.
Where it is used:
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Floral patterns
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Geometric motifs on kurtis and dupattas
Benefit: It adds depth and elegance to the design.
3. Hool (Eyelet Stitch)
Hool is a fine and delicate stitch, resembling a small eyelet or hole in the fabric, which is later outlined with embroidery. It’s often used for creating floral centers.
Where it is used:
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Flower designs
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Central motifs
Benefit: Adds texture and a traditional look to the fabric.
4. Zanzeera (Chain Stitch)
Zanzeera is a fine chain stitch used to create the outlines of motifs. It is often combined with other stitches to enhance the overall embroidery design.
Where it is used:
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Borders of floral and paisley patterns
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Necklines of kurtis
Benefit: Provides clean, sharp outlines for bold designs.
5. Keel Kangan (Bracelet Stitch)
Keel Kangan stitch resembles the design of small knots or beads and looks like tiny rings on the fabric. It’s commonly used to fill in floral motifs.
Where it is used:
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Filling small flower petals
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Decorative accents
Benefit: Creates a rich, textured look.
6. Murri (Grain-Like Stitch)
Murri is a raised stitch that looks like tiny grains of rice. It is commonly used in combination with other stitches to fill petals or leaves.
Where it is used:
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Filling floral motifs
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Highlighting delicate designs
Benefit: Adds a unique texture and fine detailing.
7. Phanda (Knot Stitch)
Phanda is a knot-like stitch that is slightly larger than Murri and is often used in the center of flowers or buds.
Where it is used:
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Flower centers
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Small accents on borders
Benefit: Perfect for giving dimension to floral designs.
8. Jali Work (Net Effect)
Jali work is one of the most artistic and labor-intensive forms of Chikankari. It involves creating a net-like effect on fabric without cutting threads. This is achieved by carefully pushing the fabric threads apart with the needle.
Where it is used:
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Dupattas and saree pallus
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Elegant panels on kurtis
Benefit: Adds a delicate, see-through pattern for a royal look.
9. Rahet (Stem Stitch)
Rahet is a flat, slightly slanted stitch used for creating stems and outlines of motifs.
Where it is used:
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Outlining vines or leaves
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Borders on kurtis
Benefit: Creates a smooth, continuous flow for floral patterns.
10. Hathkati and Banarsi Stitch
These are unique stitches that are used to create intricate designs and patterns, often resembling fine lacework.
Where it is used:
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Heavy embroidery kurtis
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Bridal wear and festive outfits
Benefit: Adds a luxurious finish to any garment.
Fabrics Used for Chikankari Work
Chikankari is best showcased on soft and breathable fabrics. Common fabrics include:
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Cotton
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Muslin
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Georgette
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Silk
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Chiffon
Light-colored fabrics like white, pastel shades, and soft hues are often preferred as they highlight the embroidery beautifully.
Modern Chikankari Trends
Today, Chikankari has evolved to suit modern fashion trends. Designers experiment with colored threads, sequins, beads, pearls, and mirror work, making it a perfect choice for both casual and festive wear. Chikankari kurtis paired with palazzos, jeans, or dupattas are a must-have for every wardrobe.
Why Choose Chikankari Kurtis?
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Timeless Elegance: Perfect for both casual and formal occasions.
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Comfortable: Lightweight and breathable fabrics make them ideal for all seasons.
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Versatile: Can be styled with jeans, skirts, or ethnic bottoms.
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Handcrafted Beauty: Each piece showcases the effort and skill of artisans.
Final Thoughts
Chikankari work is not just embroidery — it’s an art form that carries centuries of tradition and craftsmanship. Whether it’s a casual kurti or a grand bridal outfit, Chikankari adds elegance, charm, and sophistication. If you are looking to upgrade your ethnic wardrobe, a beautifully embroidered Chikankari kurti is a must-have.
At tatvika, we bring you premium Chikankari kurtis crafted by skilled artisans, ensuring authentic designs and unmatched quality. Explore our collection today and embrace the beauty of this timeless craft.
